The best brush cutter blades
A metal blade is what turns a trimmer into a real brush cutter. Here are the blades we'd fit for brambles, scrub, tough grass and saplings — plus how to choose and fit the right one.
In short:The blades we cover run from a 230 mm Stihl grass blade to 300 mm Oregon mulching blades. For brambles and scrub, 3-tooth blades such as the Silverline 633965 (254 mm, 25.4 mm bore) and Einhell 255 (2.5 mm thick) are the all-rounders; Oregon's 255 mm universal blades come with a 20 mm adaptor; 40-tooth saw blades such as the Secura 255 mm cut thickets and saplings. Always check your machine's bore (usually 25.4 or 20 mm), maximum blade diameter and the guard its manual specifies.
The 13 we cover
A heavy 300 mm, 4 mm-thick Oregon 3-tooth shredder blade (42–48 HRC, ISO 7113) — our pick for brambles, scrub and dense vegetation on powerful brush cutters.
- Type3-tooth mulching / shredder blade
- Size300 mm × 4.0 mm
- Steel hardness42–48 HRC
A budget 254 mm 3-tooth blade in 1.5 mm high-carbon steel with a 25.4 mm bore — reversible and re-sharpenable, for occasional long grass and scrub.
- Type3-tooth brush blade
- Size254 mm (10 in), 25.4 mm bore
- SteelHigh-carbon steel, 1.5 mm
A two-blade set: a 230 mm 36-tooth carbide-tipped blade for brush, brambles and young wood, plus a 255 mm 3-tooth steel blade for tall grass.
- Blades230 mm 36-tooth carbide + 255 mm 3-tooth steel
- Carbide bladeManganese steel body, tungsten-carbide tips
- Arbor adapters25.4 mm and 20 mm included
Einhell's original 3-tooth thicket blade: 255 mm, 2.5 mm thick, 25.4 mm bore — for tall, woody grass, rank growth and light scrub on Einhell brush cutters.
- Type3-tooth thicket blade
- Diameter255 mm
- Thickness2.5 mm
Oregon's 255 mm, 1.4 mm-thick 2-tooth grass blade in hardened steel (42–48 HRC), with a 20 mm adaptor — for soft grass, small weeds and light growth.
- Type2-tooth grass blade
- Size255 mm × 1.4 mm
- Steel hardness42–48 HRC
Oregon's heavy 300 mm, 3 mm 3-tooth mulching blade (42–48 HRC, ISO 7113) — for high grass, brambles and dense growth on powerful machines.
- Type3-tooth mulching / shredder blade
- Size300 mm × 3.0 mm
- Steel hardness42–48 HRC
What a mulching (shredder) blade does, with Oregon's 300 mm, 4 mm 3-tooth blade as the example — chopping high grass and brambles into fine debris.
- Type3-tooth mulching / shredder blade
- Size300 mm × 4.0 mm
- Steel hardness42–48 HRC
Oregon's 255 mm, 1.4 mm 3-tooth blade in hardened steel (42–48 HRC) with a 20 mm adaptor — for tough grass, brambles and weeds on mid-size brush cutters.
- Type3-tooth brush blade
- Size255 mm × 1.4 mm
- Steel hardness42–48 HRC
Oregon's 2-tooth shredder blade, 300 mm and 4 mm thick (42–48 HRC, ISO 7113) — heavy-duty chopping of high grass and dense vegetation on powerful machines.
- Type2-tooth mulching / shredder blade
- Size300 mm × 4.0 mm
- Steel hardness42–48 HRC
Oregon's One-for-All 8-tooth blade: 255 × 1.4 mm hardened steel with a 25.4/20 mm reducer ring — for dense grass, weeds and light scrub.
- Type8-tooth brush blade (One-for-All)
- Size255 mm × 1.4 mm
- Steel hardness42–48 HRC
A pack of five Secura 40-tooth thicket blades, 255 mm × 1.5 mm with a 25.4 mm bore — saw-type blades for thickets and saplings on suitable brush cutters.
- Type40-tooth thicket / saw blade
- Size255 mm × 1.5 mm, 25.4 mm bore
- Pack5 blades
A 255 mm, 1.5 mm 40-tooth clearing-saw blade with reinforced carbide teeth, GS safety-tested — for thin branches, thickets and undergrowth on 25.4 mm arbors.
- TypeCircular clearing-saw blade, carbide teeth
- Teeth40
- Size255 mm × 1.5 mm, 25.4 mm bore
Stihl's genuine 230 mm 2-tooth steel grass blade (4001 713 3805), listed for the FS 55, FS 80, FS 85, FS 90, FS 100, FS 130 and others — for dense, tall grass.
- Type2-tooth steel grass blade
- Diameter230 mm
- Part numberStihl 4001 713 3805
Choosing the right blade
The tooth count tells you what a blade is for. A 3-tooth blade is the versatile choice for brambles, scrub and tough grass. A 4-tooth gives a cleaner cut on grass and fine brush. An 8-tooth (or a circular saw blade) tackles saplings and woody stems. For most people clearing overgrowth, a good 3-tooth steel blade is the one to own.
Fitment and safety
Check your machine's shaft bore (usually 25.4 mm; many blades include a reducer for 20 mm) and its maximum recommended blade size. Always use the correct guard and a harness, wear full protection, and be aware that more aggressive blades increase kickback. See our buying guide for the basics.
Frequently asked questions
Which brush cutter blade is best for brambles?
A 3-tooth steel blade is the versatile all-rounder for brambles, scrub and tough grass. For saplings and woody stems, a saw blade with many small teeth works better — on machines whose manual allows it.
Will any blade fit my brush cutter?
Most brush cutters use a 25.4 mm bore, and many blades include a reducing ring for 20 mm shafts. Always check your machine's shaft size and its maximum recommended blade before fitting.
How do I keep a blade sharp?
Keep it 5–10 cm off the ground to avoid stones, and sharpen or replace the teeth when cutting slows. Steel blades are consumables — a spare is always handy.
3-tooth vs 4-tooth vs 8-tooth?
3-tooth is the all-round bramble and scrub blade; 4-tooth gives a cleaner cut on grass and fine brush; 8-tooth (or a saw blade) is for saplings and woody stems.
Which one for which need
Cutting woody growth
The more teeth a blade has, the cleaner the cut on a thick stem and the slower the feed. That is what separates a bramble blade from a sapling blade.
Clearing brambles
Few teeth clear fibrous material better and attack scrub decisively, at the cost of a less clean cut.
Fitting your own machine
The bore has to match the machine's shaft exactly. A badly centred blade runs out of true, which is dangerous at that speed.
Who each type suits
- Mixed ground
- A three-tooth blade goes everywhere: brambles, scrub and tough grass. It is the one you leave fitted the rest of the year.
- Woody regrowth
- Beyond a few centimetres in diameter, a bramble blade knocks instead of cutting. A many-toothed blade or a saw blade becomes necessary.
- Stony ground
- A steel blade hits a stone and loses its teeth or cracks. On stony soil, line remains more economical despite its lower output.
The trade-offs to weigh
- Cutting power against safety
- A steel blade cuts what no line cuts and throws the machine back violently if it catches. The harness and the bike handlebar are not comfort accessories here.
- Steel against carbide
- Steel can be sharpened and dulls fast in abrasive conditions; carbide lasts far longer and chips on an impact. The ground decides.
- Large diameter against available torque
- A wider blade sweeps more and demands more torque. On a low-powered machine it slows down and knocks.
Questions buyers ask
What is blade thrust?
When the blade catches a rigid stem in its front right sector, it throws the machine violently to the side. It is the main risk of blade work, and it is reduced by always attacking from the left sector.
Do I need a reducing bush?
Many blades come with a bush to adapt to a thinner shaft. A correctly sized bush is acceptable; play, never.
Which way should I attack the vegetation?
From right to left, sweeping. That is the direction in which the blade throws the cut material away from the operator.
Can a circular saw blade be used?
Some machines allow it with the appropriate guard and harness. Many manufacturers explicitly forbid it on their lightweight models.
Can a warped blade be repaired?
No: a deformed blade runs out of true and vibrates. It is replaced, not straightened.
Should a worn blade be turned over?
Symmetrical blades are turned over to use the second cutting edge, which doubles their life. Asymmetrical blades are not turned over.
Which guard with a blade?
The guard intended for the blade, not the line guard, which is shorter and leaves the cutting edge exposed. Changing tool often means changing guard.
How should a blade be stored?
Dry, lightly oiled and protected, never loose in a shed. A rusted blade cuts poorly and cracks more easily.
What to remember
Thrust is the real risk of the blade: attack from right to left, never through the front right sector. The bore has to match exactly, a warped blade is replaced rather than straightened — and a blade calls for its own guard, longer than the line one.